3 days in magical Nisyros - what did I do, where did I go

John KarkalatosJuly 5, 2025

This summer I reached the Dodecanese for my summer holidays and specifically Kos an island known for its picturesque harbour and wonderful sandy beaches. However I liked to explore some of the surrounding small islands because I know how picturesque and authentic are.

My main criterion is that it should be in close proximity which is why I ended up in neighbouring Nisyros. Kalymnos, although also nearby, is not considered particularly picturesque while Patmos is a very good choice but is far from Kos.

I went to Nisyros from the harbour of Kos with the Pride ferry of Dodekanisos Seaways, a high-speed ferry with airline seats that arrived there in just under an hour. In Kos there are several agencies around the harbour for issuing tickets.

Nisyros volcano attracts tourists from Kos for a one-day trip who go to see the volcano and taste the local flavours. I chose to go for three days because there is much more to see besides the volcano.

A wild and rugged island, as it seems from afar, I only saw steep mountains and nothing of interest. However, upon arriving at the harbour, my expectations seemed to be confirmed.

It was already noon when I arrived in Mandraki. Since I had not booked a hotel I temporarily stayed at the Polyvotis municipal hostel at the harbour. It is free without being the most comfortable, ideal for a short stay but I do not recommend it for longer. It does not have rooms but large chambers with beds without privacy. I did not use the toilets because it did not happen.

I rested for a while and went for a walk in Mandraki. I took the central cobblestone street that leads to Ilikiomeni Square, a genuine square without anything touristy. I had lunch at Vegos, souvlaki pita and salad with delicious appetizers. I liked the square very much it seems like a hangout for locals. Then I went for a quick walk along the coastal road.

At night I went out to Liotridia cafe for a drink, a building with black volcanic stone on the sea, overlooking Kos and gazing at the sunset. Fantastic atmosphere, indescribable experience without crowds. What impressed me is that you constantly hear the waves hitting the rocks, the waves and the wind on Nisyros never find peace. So I spent the first day relaxing in Mandraki.

Second day and now the action is picking up. I rent a car in Diakomichalis, I find a hotel and ask him information I need. Let me say that Nisyros has more Airbnbs than hotels. I chose the Romantso hotel at the harbour, a good and budget friendly solution. The island generally has affordable stay prices.

The first ride is of course to the volcano. The caldera is the only one in Greece where you have a full picture of what a caldera is. It is a plain in yellow colours from sulfur enclosed by vertical rocks, the slopes of the caldera as they are called. It is as if the center of the island is hollow. Of course Santorini also has a caldera, and a much larger one, but it is in the sea so it is not possible to have a picture.

A rather interesting volcano it is more active than Santorini's, the activity is hydrothermal and not volcanic, that is, the magma heats the rainwater which is why it also has pits with boiling water.

The steam pressure reached such a point 3,000 - 4,000 years ago that there was a major explosion that created the Stefanos crater, the largest hydrothermal crater in the world.

You enter Stefanos with a ticket and go down a trail. It is rather impressive and huge it does not look like anything you have ever seen. There you will see the steam vents and the pits with boiling water. You need to be careful because from what I understand if there is no wind blowing the gases accumulate and cause discomfort, they smell like a rotten egg. One more reason to go in the morning is that the crater has bright colours and the heat increases.

The visit is completed with the volcanological museum in Nikia but it is a bit far and now I want to go for a swim.

And after the volcano I head to Pachia as the locals call Pachia Ammos beach. For me at least the most beautiful black volcanic beach in Greece, a class above the black ones of Santorini. It may compete with the Red Beach but here it is deserted, the whole beach is yours and moreover there are no crumbling rocks hanging over you. I parked in Lies and followed the trail which has volcanic interest due to the layers of ash.

Pachia is a fantastic beach, immense, pristine, unknown to the public and that's how I hope it remains. It has nothing, no umbrellas, no bar or canteen, you just enjoy the pristine nature. Of course you don't go there just to swim but also to relax and stay for hours.

It is essential to have an umbrella with you. The sand is so soft that is a real pleasure to stay down. Because it has a trail that is a little uphill don't load yourself with too many things. It is of course not suitable for children. In the dunes you may see tents. I also learned the expression "Pachiammitis" is the resident of Pachia Ammos, the one who camps and stays for days.

I stayed there for quite a while, took a swim, rested and ate my lunch there. I returned to the hotel and went out again later. I went out in Mandraki and this time in a very romantic spot, at Seaview bar for drinks and pizza always under the sounds of the waves.

The following was the last full day in Nisyros. I have pending since yesterday the volcanological museum in Nikia, a very beautiful white village on the edge of the caldera. I also went up to Profitis Ilias high on the hill where the view is breathtaking. The volcanological museum is located at the entrance to the village and I had no difficulty finding it. It is a modern museum unique in its kind that informs you about the volcano of Nisyros but also about the activity of volcanoes in general, if you go to Nisyros you should definitely visit it. From there I continued to the square of the village which is perhaps the most beautiful in the Aegean. I did not stay there to eat in Nikia because the program includes swimming.

To be honest I thought about Mandraki for swimming but the beach is small and indifferent. The other one, Chochlakoi, someone told me that it has very large pebbles and when the meltemi wind blows you can't go in so I ruled it out. The options for swimming are generally few.

I finally went to Paloi, a neighbouring village with a very nice sandy beach. A popular beach with a lot of people, with umbrellas and free space. It also has a cafeteria and taverns with very nice food and a small harbour. I ate souvlaki, salad and various appetizers in Salonikios, all delicious, I licked my fingers.

For my evening out, I discovered the most sought-after spot on Nisyros, which is none other than Emporeios village, a seemingly insignificant village but with two very nice tavernas, the Balkoni of Emporeios and Apyria or Triantafyllos as the locals call it. Here I found authentic Nisyros flavours, local goat raised on the island, local products, the pytia which is the local crispy chickpea meatballs, the sakouliasti cheese and many more local flavours. And it's not just that, it's also the magical environment with tables in a small square and in the alleys where everyone becomes one big group in a village that time has left untouched with old houses built with volcanic stone.

And after this unique experience the third and last day on the island has come. The ferry I will return to Piraeus is Blue Star Patmos that departs early in the night, so as you understand I have reserved the hotel room for this day as well. I also handed over the car to Diakomichalis because I will not go outside of Mandraki today.

Because I do not want to bother myself I will not go swimming. For this day I have reserved three remarkable points of historical and religious interest. I start from the archaeological museum to see interesting findings from the long history of the island. Something that no one should miss is the pilgrimage to the monastery of Panagia Spiliani, for the icon of the Virgin Mary, the wood-carved iconostasis of 1725 and the amazing view of Mandraki and the sea.

The last and quite interesting visit is to Palaiokastro, an ancient castle of the 4th century BC built with volcanic stone by the Carian tyrant Mausolus. The entrance is free and I went there on foot. The day ends at Ilikiomeni Square for lunch. The souvenir I bought is a bottle of soumada, the traditional sweet of the island. I did not take any volcanic stone as a souvenir I consider it stupid to do something like that. Not that I saw anything but because many people do it in Santorini.

In general Nisyros left me with the best impressions. Very very picturesque it puts you in a slow way of life, without crowds, with peace, without dress codes and without great temptations for sweets and food. It made me think about using my feet for walking, enjoying simple food and calming down. The only downside are the beaches which are few and these in Mandraki are not notable, so you have to go a few kilometers to swim.

I hope sometime I am going to visit Nisyros again!

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